This research and these posts should make it easier to comprehend?
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/utility-manifold-valves-81133.html#post909713
https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/utility-manifold-valves-81133.html#post912067
Sunday, June 19, 2022
Jayco RV Utility Center Theory Of Operation
OMG could the utility center in the Jayco 26Y be any more confusing?
Stuck at Camp Possibiites
I postulated what failure modes would keep you from leaving a campsite and what you could do about it.
Any subsystem failure or low or missing 12v power can cause:
-Slideouts to get stuck out
-Awning to get stuck out
-Hydraulic jacks to be stuck down
Having one of these stuck out is the start of a bad day!
----------
I did research on manually retracting my slide-outs in case of failure or loss of battery power.
On my 2020 Greyhawk 26Y the bedroom (in-room) slide can be manually operated from the Lippert slide controller.
According to the manual and Lippert. The slide can also be disengaged by unplugging the motors from the controller and pushing the slide in, then reconnecting the motors to lock the slide.
After pushing the slide in you can also put stops on top of the valance to keep the slide from sliding out. I carry two pieces of PVC for that.
There is one important design fault that makes manual slide operation a challenge. Jayco put the controller under the bed and it is not accessible from outside the bed box underframe. This means if you want to get access to the controller to:
To manually push the bed in you can remove the cover, unplug the motors and push the bed in. Then since the bed covers the controller you cannot plug the motor cables back in to enable locking.
DOH!
I wonder if Jayco actually tries some of the failure procedures that an RV user may encounter.
I contacted Jayco and they told me I had to disassemble the valance and unplug the motors at the motor end to disengage the slide....seriously.
So my solution was to relocate the bed controller to the outside wall of the bed frame. This way I can unplug the motors at the controller and not disassemble anything. I get the added benefit of being able to see the slide controller status and manual operation.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SdRMrqUzzBrhLJJx8
--------------
The living room slide-out is different. You access the motor from outside under the slide. A power drill is required to drive the slide in. I haven't tried this yet.
--------------
Side Note:
While inside the bed frame, full of unbelievably unprofessional wiring, I also noticed that my inverter has a nice digital display to show its current draw and status etc. Would have been nice to have its display visible! It's a big undertaking to move it as it's in the middle of high current wiring.
-----------------
Solution:
Any subsystem failure or low or missing 12v power can cause:
-Slideouts to get stuck out
-Awning to get stuck out
-Hydraulic jacks to be stuck down
Having one of these stuck out is the start of a bad day!
----------
I did research on manually retracting my slide-outs in case of failure or loss of battery power.
On my 2020 Greyhawk 26Y the bedroom (in-room) slide can be manually operated from the Lippert slide controller.
According to the manual and Lippert. The slide can also be disengaged by unplugging the motors from the controller and pushing the slide in, then reconnecting the motors to lock the slide.
After pushing the slide in you can also put stops on top of the valance to keep the slide from sliding out. I carry two pieces of PVC for that.
There is one important design fault that makes manual slide operation a challenge. Jayco put the controller under the bed and it is not accessible from outside the bed box underframe. This means if you want to get access to the controller to:
- See the status indicators
- For manual operation
- To plug/unplug the motor cables
To manually push the bed in you can remove the cover, unplug the motors and push the bed in. Then since the bed covers the controller you cannot plug the motor cables back in to enable locking.
DOH!
I wonder if Jayco actually tries some of the failure procedures that an RV user may encounter.
I contacted Jayco and they told me I had to disassemble the valance and unplug the motors at the motor end to disengage the slide....seriously.
So my solution was to relocate the bed controller to the outside wall of the bed frame. This way I can unplug the motors at the controller and not disassemble anything. I get the added benefit of being able to see the slide controller status and manual operation.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SdRMrqUzzBrhLJJx8
--------------
The living room slide-out is different. You access the motor from outside under the slide. A power drill is required to drive the slide in. I haven't tried this yet.
--------------
Side Note:
While inside the bed frame, full of unbelievably unprofessional wiring, I also noticed that my inverter has a nice digital display to show its current draw and status etc. Would have been nice to have its display visible! It's a big undertaking to move it as it's in the middle of high current wiring.
-----------------
Solution:
- Manually raise the hydraulic jacks with a drill (in Lippert manual)
- Manually retract the awning (video on how to do this will a HF drill https://youtu.be/AJQI0iPCK5A )
- Manually retract slideouts (in Lippert manual)
Jayco 26Y Cab Sound & Heat Reduction
I know that there are many posts on the subject of sound and heat abatement on the Jayco forum because I used them as references for this project.
Thanks to all that have done this before me and shared the way...
-------
We will soon be going on a trip and fully evaluating this upgrade.
I did not have a "before" sound measurement but on our test drive, I measured a 50-60db level in normal driving and a 70db level going up steep UTAH hills.
My visceral conclusion is that the noise is dramatically reduced. Our Cadillac measures in the 50-67db on the same road.
During this test drive, there was no noticeable heat radiating from the floor.
I did not insulate the doghouse. The materials had warnings not to use them outside so I held off. Since then I know of one RVer that put the Killomat under the stock insulation, I may do that later.
I had plenty of material left over. Then again I planned for but did not do the doghouse.
--------
I did struggle to decide on which of the many recommended materials to use and where.
========The list of what materials I used===============
Floor 1st layer: https://amzn.to/32R2CHw
Floor top layer: https://amzn.to/3aGdFaA
==========List of tools used=============
For seat bolts:
For material installation:
For panel release:
Trim removal tools:
==========Outline of installation =====================
First on the passenger side and then repeat on the driver side:
Remove the side kick panels & covering:
Remove the step trim:
Existing rubber mat:
Apply the Killomat first and then the Noico red.
After laying down both materials roll the mat back over the floor fitting it around the seat bolts and cable holes.
Replace the side and step panels. Be careful that the clips are aligned with their hole and do not force them. When they are aligned they will lockin easily.
Repeat the above on the driver's side.
Finally,
Thanks to all that have done this before me and shared the way...
-------
We will soon be going on a trip and fully evaluating this upgrade.
I did not have a "before" sound measurement but on our test drive, I measured a 50-60db level in normal driving and a 70db level going up steep UTAH hills.
My visceral conclusion is that the noise is dramatically reduced. Our Cadillac measures in the 50-67db on the same road.
During this test drive, there was no noticeable heat radiating from the floor.
I did not insulate the doghouse. The materials had warnings not to use them outside so I held off. Since then I know of one RVer that put the Killomat under the stock insulation, I may do that later.
I had plenty of material left over. Then again I planned for but did not do the doghouse.
--------
I did struggle to decide on which of the many recommended materials to use and where.
========The list of what materials I used===============
Floor 1st layer: https://amzn.to/32R2CHw
Floor top layer: https://amzn.to/3aGdFaA
==========List of tools used=============
For seat bolts:
- T55 1/2" drive Torx bit: I bought a full set at HF. Here is a single: https://amzn.to/3vk1VT5
- 18mm 1/2" socket
For material installation:
- Sharp utility knife
- Roller: https://amzn.to/3esFsMS
For panel release:
Trim removal tools:
==========Outline of installation =====================
Remove seats:
- There are two rear 18mm nuts and 2 forward T55 torxs
- Unplug cables connecting seats. These cables have a locking tab that you release to unplug them. If they won't unplug then don't force you have not unlocked it.
Remove doghouse:
- Pull outward on locking tabs on the bottom and upper sides of the house. Then you can pull back and remove the house from the cab.
- You may have to remove the panel under the steering wheel first.
- To remove pull the panel briskly outward. (be prepared for a bundle of wires to droop down, I tied mine up as best I could)
First on the passenger side and then repeat on the driver side:
Remove the side kick panels & covering:
- Each side has a kick panel on the outer wall. I removed and insulated the inside of them.
- On the doghouse sides, I pulled the covering material outward and applied the sound deadening/heat materials under it. I did not remove it from the wall.
Remove the step trim:
- Remove the large black trim section that covers the step and overlaps the mat. This section can be removed by releasing the clips. It's best to use a trim removal tool to keep from breaking the clips.
Existing rubber mat:
- Don't remove the mat from the vehicle but rather lift 1/2 of the rubber mat at a time. I left the insulation that was attached to the underside of the mat and the few places it was on the floor and laid material over it.
Apply the Killomat first and then the Noico red.
- The materials form easily to the floor but once you lay them down they cannot be easily moved.
- Ensure that there are no gaps between the individual pieces as you fit them.
- I laid the section on the floor and used a marker to mark the shape. You can also form the shape by pressing it around areas you want to cut away.
- Before laying down the material note where holes for fasteners, clips, and cables need to connect. I used the blunt end of a marker to press a mark in the material while fitting and before removing the backing. This showed me where to cut out the holes after applying the material.
- Release the backing from the edge of the cut material and stick the exposed edge in place. Then with one hand roll the backing off under the section as you press it into the surface with the other hand.
- After laying the material down use the roller to ensure good adhesion. Be easier on the Noico material as it can shred if you abrade it too much.
- I also ran material down the side of the floor into the step gulch.
After laying down both materials roll the mat back over the floor fitting it around the seat bolts and cable holes.
Replace the side and step panels. Be careful that the clips are aligned with their hole and do not force them. When they are aligned they will lockin easily.
Repeat the above on the driver's side.
Finally,
- Replace and install the doghouse
- Replace the panel under the steering wheel. I found that after tie wrapping everything except the camera cables and controller, the easiest way to get the panel on was:
- Leave the camera control and wiring hanging out of the gap in the upper middle of the panel. Then lift and press the panel upward and into its clip holes. After the panel is clipped into place then push the camera controller and cables into the gap in the middle of the panel and into space under the steering wheel.
- Put the seat in position but before bolting it in connect the seat wiring.
- Bolt in the seats insuring that the front bolts and rear nuts are tight. They will feel "soft" as you tighten them as the new floor compresses.
Photos
Installing a Front Hitch
We have two electric bikes and have been carrying them in the house.
We wanted to mount them outside but they are heavy.
We decided to mount one on the front and one on the back.
The back bike goes on a platform in that hitch and the front one that is a lighter bike will go on a bike rack on the front hitch.
After a bunch of research and an email to the manufacturer, I got a hitch from amazon. Draw-Tite 65053 Front Mount Receiver Hitch
The paper instructions are OK but the best installation help is the video on this page: https://www.etrailer.com/Front-Recei...ite/65053.html
The hitch went in without much difficulty. I did NOT remove the bumper as some other installers suggested. A floor jack is helpful in lifting the hitch into position.
After loosening the bumper bolts the hitch bolts were easy to get up in the frame with the most brilliant set of spring wire helpers I have ever seen. I chucked each time I pulled the bolt up and through the frame with this technique. See the video.
The biggest problem I had was getting the lower shroud bolts into the Timmerman nuts. I ended up having to retap and rethread the hardware.
I cut the shroud a little closer than the instructions called for and it fits nice.
I am happy with the quality of the hitch. It was easy to install by me and DW. Now we can mount bikes and maybe if I am brave the spare on the front.
We wanted to mount them outside but they are heavy.
We decided to mount one on the front and one on the back.
The back bike goes on a platform in that hitch and the front one that is a lighter bike will go on a bike rack on the front hitch.
After a bunch of research and an email to the manufacturer, I got a hitch from amazon. Draw-Tite 65053 Front Mount Receiver Hitch
The paper instructions are OK but the best installation help is the video on this page: https://www.etrailer.com/Front-Recei...ite/65053.html
The hitch went in without much difficulty. I did NOT remove the bumper as some other installers suggested. A floor jack is helpful in lifting the hitch into position.
After loosening the bumper bolts the hitch bolts were easy to get up in the frame with the most brilliant set of spring wire helpers I have ever seen. I chucked each time I pulled the bolt up and through the frame with this technique. See the video.
The biggest problem I had was getting the lower shroud bolts into the Timmerman nuts. I ended up having to retap and rethread the hardware.
I cut the shroud a little closer than the instructions called for and it fits nice.
I am happy with the quality of the hitch. It was easy to install by me and DW. Now we can mount bikes and maybe if I am brave the spare on the front.
Spare Tire Kit for Jayco 26Y
Spare Tire Kit
After a lot of research and help on the Jayco forum, I finally got a spare tire kit for my Jayco 26Y.
------
I hope I NEVER have the opportunity to come back here and let everyone know how well it worked.
-----
-----
Disclaimer: your RV may be different than mine and require different parts so check everything carefully before you purchase and try everything before you trust it.
------
I tested my spare kit by jacking up the RV and removing nuts but not the tire.
The 6-ton jack lifted the RV, OK but I needed more leverage and length than the stock bar provided. I made a multipiece one from 3/4 pipe and nipples.
@ 140 ft-lb I had no problem breaking the nuts loose with a 25" breaker bar and replacing them using the torque rod was easy.
As a handling test, I lifted the tire into the bed above the cab where we plan on storing the tire until I find a better approach. The spare is heavy and I could, with lots of grunting, manhandle it up and off the bunk. Then roll it down the stairs to the ground.
Eventually, I want to mount it under the back frame.
-------------
I got my rim off eBay and had to put a coat of paint on it as it was used.
PIN OR NO PIN that is the question
There is one potential fit problem with the rim you get.
Evidentially some rims have a locator pin and some do not. Ensure that your rim fits your RV.
Schwab tested my eBay rim on the RV when they mounted and balanced the tire. My wheel and RV both had the pin and hole. They told me if the pin was not needed they would have cut it off but you don't want to find this out on the road.
--------------
I added 2x spare lug nuts to my kit. I could imagine losing them in the dirt.
--------------
Attached also are photos of the tire-changing information I collected.
---------------------------
Tire change specs:
--Torque: 140 ft-lb
--Apply anti-seize between 2 piece washer and nut
Spare tire kit:
--Tire* & rim **
--Rubber hammer/prybar for wheel simulators, [https://amzn.to/33aU2DG]
--1/2 " drive 25 " breaker bar, (HF)
--1/2" drive extension
--6 ton bottle jack
--Long bottle jack handle (I made a multi-peice one out of 3/4 pipe)
-- 140 ft-lb torque rod [https://amzn.to/33h4itL]
-- 7/8 x 1/2" drive impact socket
-- 2 x Spare lug nut (9/16 x 18 two-piece lug nut)***
-- Copper-based anti-seize https://amzn.to/3edE69N
-- Plastic Bag to cover the spare
-- Two 12", 4x4 sections
-- Air pump
-------------------
Wheel: 8C24-1015-GA GRY HA WHT** [Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332386940277]
Tire: LT225/75R16* [from Schwabbs]
WHEEL NUT: Dorman Motormite 611-127*** [OReilly or https://amzn.to/3b0Ov6W]
Enjoy and comment:
I hope I NEVER have the opportunity to come back here and let everyone know how well it worked.
-----
MY PLAN
I built a kit mainly so that if I get a flat I have the spare for road assistance to exchange. However, I also wanted the option to change it myself if in dire need.-----
Disclaimer: your RV may be different than mine and require different parts so check everything carefully before you purchase and try everything before you trust it.
------
I tested my spare kit by jacking up the RV and removing nuts but not the tire.
The 6-ton jack lifted the RV, OK but I needed more leverage and length than the stock bar provided. I made a multipiece one from 3/4 pipe and nipples.
@ 140 ft-lb I had no problem breaking the nuts loose with a 25" breaker bar and replacing them using the torque rod was easy.
As a handling test, I lifted the tire into the bed above the cab where we plan on storing the tire until I find a better approach. The spare is heavy and I could, with lots of grunting, manhandle it up and off the bunk. Then roll it down the stairs to the ground.
Eventually, I want to mount it under the back frame.
-------------
I got my rim off eBay and had to put a coat of paint on it as it was used.
PIN OR NO PIN that is the question
There is one potential fit problem with the rim you get.
Evidentially some rims have a locator pin and some do not. Ensure that your rim fits your RV.
Schwab tested my eBay rim on the RV when they mounted and balanced the tire. My wheel and RV both had the pin and hole. They told me if the pin was not needed they would have cut it off but you don't want to find this out on the road.
--------------
I added 2x spare lug nuts to my kit. I could imagine losing them in the dirt.
--------------
Attached also are photos of the tire-changing information I collected.
---------------------------
Kit Contents
Here is what my kit ended up as:Tire change specs:
--Torque: 140 ft-lb
--Apply anti-seize between 2 piece washer and nut
Spare tire kit:
--Tire* & rim **
--Rubber hammer/prybar for wheel simulators, [https://amzn.to/33aU2DG]
--1/2 " drive 25 " breaker bar, (HF)
--1/2" drive extension
--6 ton bottle jack
--Long bottle jack handle (I made a multi-peice one out of 3/4 pipe)
-- 140 ft-lb torque rod [https://amzn.to/33h4itL]
-- 7/8 x 1/2" drive impact socket
-- 2 x Spare lug nut (9/16 x 18 two-piece lug nut)***
-- Copper-based anti-seize https://amzn.to/3edE69N
-- Plastic Bag to cover the spare
-- Two 12", 4x4 sections
-- Air pump
-------------------
Wheel: 8C24-1015-GA GRY HA WHT** [Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/332386940277]
Tire: LT225/75R16* [from Schwabbs]
WHEEL NUT: Dorman Motormite 611-127*** [OReilly or https://amzn.to/3b0Ov6W]
Enjoy and comment:
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)