Sumo Rear Bump Stops

Improving the Rear Suspension 

I am very happy with the front Sumo Springs I installed so I decided to add rear Sumo Springs to my Jayco 26Y.

I got the versions that fit an E450 rear.

I got them from Etrailer:  https://www.etrailer.com/p-SSR-130-47.html

You can also get them from Amazon: https://amzn.to/3SwLFtN

This installation was done on a Jayco 26Y with HELLWIG helper springs. I was concerned that they might interfere with the springs but they do not.

All in all the installation took me about 2 hrs. With ratcheting wrenches, this would have probably taken only 1 hr.

What is in the box

The springs arrived in about 11/2 weeks packaged well in a box. The instructions can be found here: https://www.superspringsinternational.com/instructions/SSR-130-47.pdf

The instructions were simple enough but were incomplete in these ways:

• The instructions show two holes in the mounting bracket when in fact there are 4. I used the rear hole inboard of the mounting bolt.
• The ETrailer video I watched showed a left and right version. These were not marked as such and were identical.
• I was not sure whether to use the spacer or not. There are no instructions on how to tell or why to use them.

Tools

I highly advise investing in a set of ratcheting metric box wrenches. I did it with one 9/16 ratcheting box wrench (works for 14mm) and one 15mm box wrench as I have no metric ratcheting box wrenches.

The spring mounting screw is to be torqued to 20ft-lbs but I did not have a torque wrench small enough to fit in the available space so I just guessed.

I did not use the spacers and associated bolts.

Tools, removed and unused parts

Fasteners

• 15mm for the stock bump stops
• 14mm for the Sumo mounting

Preparation

One video suggested using the hydraulic lifts to jack the RV up. I decided it would be easier to use a floor jack positioned under the hydraulic jacks. Jack stands were placed as a safety measure but the RV has plenty of clearance if it were to release from the jack and I was underneath. I jacked the frame up until it took the weight off the tires. This left about a 6 1/2" clearance between the frame and the axle.

Use the Spacer or Not

Since there were no instructions on when and why to use a spacer I decided to measure the gap between the frame and the axle before lifting the RV. From this measurement, I could get an idea of how much additional pressure the spacer would create. The resting position leaves the frame about 6 1/2" above the axle. The total height of the Sumo spring was approximately 7". I decided to leave the spacers out since there would be about 1" of compression. I guessed I would not need 2" of compression. I am guessing that adding them would make an even stiffer ride. I am not trying to stiffen up the ride but reduce the rear sway. Only testing will tell if this is the right decision. If I had to add the spacers it would only require jacking up the RV and removing/replacing two bolts.

The spacer would add about 1" of additional compression.

Passenger Side Install

Remove the stock bump stop

The 15mm nut for the stock bump stop is on top of the arced section of the frame. The exhaust pipe leaves just enough room to get a box wrench onto the nut. This is where a ratcheting box wrench would speed up the installation.

15mm box wrench at 1/2 rotation per turn takes a while to remove

A smaller rachet helps but a 15mm deep socket is needed

Used this after the box wrench loosened the nut enough to get a standard socket on it.

Adding the Sumo bracket

After removing the stock stop, insert the Sumo brackets bolt up through the stock bumps hole and add the nut and washer on the top of the frame. 

Add the Sumo Spring

Insert the spring mounting bolt into the correct hole. The rear hole inboard of the frame. Then lift the spring up and mate it to the bracket. It is a little challenging to get the bolt aligned with the threaded hole in the spring and get it started. The curvature of the bracket is the same size as the perimeter of the spring when aligned. Move the spring until it is aligned with the bracket and the bolt should screw into the spring. 

Overhead view of the bracket mounting nut and spring holding bolt

Tighten the 14mm bolt on top of the spring bracket

Completing the Passenger Side Installation

Check that the bracket mounting bolt is tight.

Then torque the spring mounting bolt to 20 ft-lbs. I did not have a torque wrench that would fit into that space so I guessed. 2 grunts is about 20 lbs :). One set of instructions suggested the use of a crows foot and a small torque wrench.

Position before the jack is released.

Fully Loaded Position

Driver Side Installation

The driver-side installation uses the same steps but has easier access because there is no muffler pipe in the way. You do have to contend with a brake line bracket that is positioned under the bump stop mounting bolt. Jack up the frame and start the driver-side install.

Removing the stock bump stop with a 15 mm box wrench

Final turns with a 15 mm socket. Note the brake line bracket. 

Installing the Sumo bracket with the brake line bracket in place using a 9/16 ratchet. Don't forget the washer! 

Aligning and fastening (20 ft-lbs) the Sumo spring with the short 14mm bolt

Completed installation prior to letting down the jack

Fully loaded spring

Final Checks

• Ensure that on the passenger and driver sides, the 14 mm bracket and Sumo spring nuts and bolts are tight
• Ensure that the installation does not hamper or pinch on any wires, cable, or tubing under the RV.

While under the RV I always look for ways to better secure tubing and cables with tie-wraps.

In Conclusion

The installation was simple and easy to complete. Ratcheting box wrenches (14 & 15 mm) would have made the job a lot easier but standard tools did work. The instructions were missing some useful information regarding the mounting holes and spacer use. I will follow up this post with a report on how well the RV rides with this upgrade after the next few trips.

Enjoy and comment,

Don

RV Trim Lights

 Let There Be (more) Light

I wanted to add some trim lights on our RV to help illuminate the campsite. The RV had only one small light above the door. So I went searching for LED strings and controllers.

RV upgrades are never as simple (or as cheap) as you initially plan this was no exception.

I got this set of lights and a controller. I figured I would mount the strip on the trim and wire them to the outdoor light switch. Easy peasy!

https://kit.co/donkjr/rv-upgrade-maint-repair/led-strip

After getting the set I realized that the controller uses an IR remote. This meant that the IR sensor needed to have a clear line of sight from the outside of the RV. That is so I can change the lighting from my camping stool.

This brought into play a whole raft of weather and vibration requirements that I did not initially intend to tackle. Mounting anything outside of an RV takes some special scrutiny. It’s challenging enough mounting the LED strip on the outside of the RV now the controller needed to be mounted there as well. Actually, this would make the fragile wiring from the controller to the strip more reliable.

I could have 3D printed a custom case but I went with the switch box approach. You can find many styles of plastic electrical boxes that can be used for projects like this. In this case, I use a switch box that has a side box area intended to accommodate expanded wiring.

I bent a form-fit acrylic cover. The controller was screwed into the box and its power plug was hacked to allow the use of a Weather Pack waterproof power connecter. The IR sensor is positioned in a notch and held in place by the cover. A blade fuse was added. The LED strip plug exits the box in a position that facilities mounting the strip on the RV frame. All the cable exits were sealed with silicone. I would call the box water resistant not waterproof.

The power for this box came from the outside lights switch inside the RV. Getting from that switch through the cabinets and out the frame was not at all fun. I had to remove/replace three rear panels in the cabinets

As I am writing this I am thinking I will add a gasket to the box's acrylic cover.

Enjoy and please comment,

Don

RV Power Cord Panel

Stowing the power cord

All RVers know the annoying process of removing the main power cord from its storage compartment. 

You pull the cord fully out of the compartment, then feed it back in and through the floor of the compartment through the slot with the hinged cover and eventually to the power box.

To stow the cord you pull it fully out through the floor and then coil it into the storage compartment. 

I researched ways to make this easier. There seemed to be two prevailing approaches:

1. Cut the cord at the opening of the compartment and add a female socket connector to the cable. This facilitates plugging and unplugging the entire roll of cable rather than feeding it in and out of the storage area. This makes it easier to plug and unplug the coil of cable but you still have to feed it through the floor???
2. Put a female outlet on the side of the RV. This facilitates taking the cord from the storage area and simply plugging it into the side of the RV. To stow, the cord unplug, roll up the cord and replace it in the storage compartment 

A Different Approach

I decided to implement # 1 because I did not want to cut a hole in the RV. However, the addition of another connection in a high current cable just did not feel like the right thing to do.

Then it occurred to me why not come up with a way for the cable to exit the compartment without going through the floor. A way where the cable is just pulled out and then recoiled for storage.

I started investigating simply putting a hold in the door for the cable to exit. The latch was in the way and I really don't like cutting into the RV's skin.

Why not open the door pull out the cable and then insert a panel in the compartment opening.

I decided this would be my approach.

The Panel

I make a template & prototype from 1/4" board so that I could get the corner radiuses correct and check the fit. The final version was to be a clear acrylic. 

• The dimensions are included in the picture in case you want to make one.
• The notch in the left side is to clear the hinge,
• The nut on the right side is for the locking bolt. The acrylic version is threaded.
• The hole in the middle is for your finger to be able to insert/remove the panel
• The notch at the bottom is for the cable

The acrylic panel fastener

The acrylic panel is locked in place. The yellow item in the upper left is an AC plug tester I leave in the socket to show proper AC power.

The Locking Hardware

The panel is locked in place by a rotating disk (washer) that interposed the back surface of the compartments frame. You turn in counterclockwise to tighten and clockwise to release.

The knob for this assembly was made by pouring hot glue into a box wrench with the bolt standing in the center.

Optional Door Latch

The wife thought the door should be secured out of the way when this panel is installed so it's not flapping freely. Two magnets were glued (Plumbers goop) on the outside of the door and fender to secure the door in the open position. I use Plumbers Goop a lot on the RV. It has strong holding power but also can be removed if necessary. We will see if this will stay attached when underway.

Final Installation

Here the panel is in place with the cord captured in the bottom notch.

Look what crawled into the compartment!!

Panel installed with the door latched open

Conclusion

To hook up:

• Open the compartment door
• Pull out the cable
• Install the cord panel
Plug in the cord

To depart:

• Unplug the cord
• Pull off the clear panel
• Coil the cord in the compartment
• Close the door
• Stow the cord panel 

Enjoy and comment, 

Don

RV Exit Window Screen

 Using an RV Exit Window for Ventilation

Note-ing the exit window in my Jayco 26Y every time I get into bed kept reminding me that allowing it to open would certainly create better airflow.

This is a subject of some discussion on most RV forums and many add a screen and some form of mechanism to hold the window open for ventilation. 

I decided to research the safety standards for exit windows and decide if and how to make mine useable as a vent while retaining a reasonable safety posture.

Application of Safety Standards

I did the usual Google jaunt through lots of posts with the goal of understanding what standards apply to the exit window. The excerpt below seemed to best explain the applicable standards.

So why don't RV manufacturers make the exit window usable?

The standards clearly state that the exit window must not have any obstruction. Adding a screen would violate that standard. Without a screen, the exit window is less usable for ventilation since it becomes a corridor for bugs.

For this reason, adding a screen to an exit window is not recommended and you do so at your own risk! 

NFPA 1192

Alternate exits (fire/emergency exits) are covered in chapter 6 of NFPA 1192 - standard for RV's. (National Fire Protection Association) and is used by the RVIA.

6.2.1.1
Recreational vehicles shall have a minimum of two exits located remote from each other and so arranged as to provide a means of unobstructed travel to the outside of the vehicle.

6.2.1.2
Each bedroom or area designed for sleeping shall have at least two unobstructed paths to exit.

6.2.1.3
The path to exit shall not require passing any designated exit to gain use of another designated exit except where any part of a bed in its normal sleeping configuration is within
24 in. (610 mm) of the plane of the nearest designated exit as projected across the vehicle.

6.2.3.1
The path leading to an alternate exit, other than that stated in6.2.2, shall be not less
than 13 in. (330 mm) wide at the narrowest point and as a minimum shall extend vertically
from the supporting surface below the alternate exit to the top of the alternate exit

6.2.5*
Size of Alternate Exits.

6.2.5.1
The alternate exit, if not an exterior passage door, shall provide an opening of sufficient size to permit unobstructed passage, keeping the major axis parallel to the plane of the opening and horizontal at all times, of an ellipsoid generated by rotating about the minor axis an ellipse having a major axis of 24 in. (610 mm) and a minor axis of 17 in. (432 mm). (See Figure A.6.2.5.)

6.2.5.2
An exterior passage door if used for an alternate exit shall provide an unobstructed opening with a minimum horizontal dimension of 18 in. (457 mm) and a minimum vertical dimension of 48 in. (1.2 m).

To Vent or Not to Vent that is the Question

After closely inspecting our RV's exit window I learned the following;

• Although the exit window meets the opening size standards it would not be easy for a full-figured adult to get through that window
• The frame of the window is likely to abrade or cut anyone exiting the RV through it. I guess it's a tradeoff between flesh or burning injuries. Perhaps laying a pillow on the window sill would help avoid injury
• The window is very close to the bed which may be a hindrance or help
• It would be best to exit the window feet first.
• The standards don't mention what you may mount outside the exit window. In my case, there is a spare tire below the window and I have to decide if that is a hindrance or help. Edit: I decided to cut back the upright holding the spare tire and leave it in place. I think it allows you a place to kneel/slide while exiting out the window.
• Properly attached I have a hard time believing that a screen would stop me from exiting in the case of a fire.
• I never want to be in a situation where I need this window.

Converting the Exit Window for Ventilation

Most of the time if it is hot the air conditioning is used and most of the time this is at night when a fire would be most dangerous.

Approach

• Fabricate and add a screen attached to the exit windows frame with a minimum of velcro
• Add handles to the screen so it can be easily removed
• Leave the screen off the exit window when it is not opened
• Fabricate and add a removable mechanism to hold open the window. Do not add any bracket that would impede exiting that window.

Window Holding Latch

I initially planned to use this window latch https://amzn.to/3RhgnH5. It provided a convenient way to push open the window and latch it in place. Then it occurred to me that it would either make it impossible to exit [if it did not break away] or it would be in the way of an already marginal opening. I decided to return it and make my own simpler and removable latching mechanism. Actually, it does not latch it just "holds" the window open.

This holding bracket mounts to the window frame and the weight of the window holds it in place. It minimally interposes into the window opening and it is easy to knock off if necessary. You just lift the window and it falls out or is simple to remove.

I think this holding latch facilitates exiting through this window.

I am thinking of replacing this holding latch with an installed version although it's a bit expensive. Hatch Lid Stay

Window Screen

This was fabricated using a window screen kit Screen Kit. After measuring the window opening and frame with I came up with dimensions that work for my window.

The kit corners are 90s rather than the arcs needed to fit the screen in the slot of the frame. This dictated that the screen be mounted on the outside of the window frame. This mounting facilitated easy removal in adverse to fitting the screen into the windows slot. Not as pretty but met the"easy to remove" requirement.

The frames aluminum is easy to cut square on a table saw

Use a center strut to keep the frame from bending while inserting the screen otherwise, it will not seal well to the window frame

When inserting the screen add the "pulls" at the top. 

I tied a ribbon across the pulls to make jerking the screen off even easier

Attaching the Screen to the Frame

The screen is attached using cut sections of velcro in a few places around the frame. I did not want to make the screen hard to remove so I used only 2x - 1" sections of velcro on each side of the frame.

The screen fit reasonably tight against the frame but there was a bit of daylight still detectable.

I used weather stripping that was thick enough to seal but still allowed the velcro to minimally grab.  I would have rather used black but it only came in white. It probably would be better if I adhered it to the screen rather than the window frame so it's not visible when the screen is removed.

 Summary

Adding anything to the existing Exit window configuration in your RV carries risk and I am not recommending doing so. Any modifications you make to your RV you do so at your own risk.

This post is for information purposes only and outlines the materials and steps I used. 

The exit window is useable as a vent with the addition of an easily removable screen and a holding bracket. This screen will be left off unless the window is open.