RV Exit Window Screen

 Using an RV Exit Window for Ventilation

Note-ing the exit window in my Jayco 26Y every time I get into bed kept reminding me that allowing it to open would certainly create better airflow.

This is a subject of some discussion on most RV forums and many add a screen and some form of mechanism to hold the window open for ventilation. 

I decided to research the safety standards for exit windows and decide if and how to make mine useable as a vent while retaining a reasonable safety posture.

Application of Safety Standards

I did the usual Google jaunt through lots of posts with the goal of understanding what standards apply to the exit window. The excerpt below seemed to best explain the applicable standards.

So why don't RV manufacturers make the exit window usable?

The standards clearly state that the exit window must not have any obstruction. Adding a screen would violate that standard. Without a screen, the exit window is less usable for ventilation since it becomes a corridor for bugs.

For this reason, adding a screen to an exit window is not recommended and you do so at your own risk! 

NFPA 1192

Alternate exits (fire/emergency exits) are covered in chapter 6 of NFPA 1192 - standard for RV's. (National Fire Protection Association) and is used by the RVIA.

6.2.1.1
Recreational vehicles shall have a minimum of two exits located remote from each other and so arranged as to provide a means of unobstructed travel to the outside of the vehicle.

6.2.1.2
Each bedroom or area designed for sleeping shall have at least two unobstructed paths to exit.

6.2.1.3
The path to exit shall not require passing any designated exit to gain use of another designated exit except where any part of a bed in its normal sleeping configuration is within
24 in. (610 mm) of the plane of the nearest designated exit as projected across the vehicle.

6.2.3.1
The path leading to an alternate exit, other than that stated in6.2.2, shall be not less
than 13 in. (330 mm) wide at the narrowest point and as a minimum shall extend vertically
from the supporting surface below the alternate exit to the top of the alternate exit

6.2.5*
Size of Alternate Exits.

6.2.5.1
The alternate exit, if not an exterior passage door, shall provide an opening of sufficient size to permit unobstructed passage, keeping the major axis parallel to the plane of the opening and horizontal at all times, of an ellipsoid generated by rotating about the minor axis an ellipse having a major axis of 24 in. (610 mm) and a minor axis of 17 in. (432 mm). (See Figure A.6.2.5.)

6.2.5.2
An exterior passage door if used for an alternate exit shall provide an unobstructed opening with a minimum horizontal dimension of 18 in. (457 mm) and a minimum vertical dimension of 48 in. (1.2 m).

To Vent or Not to Vent that is the Question

After closely inspecting our RV's exit window I learned the following;

• Although the exit window meets the opening size standards it would not be easy for a full-figured adult to get through that window
• The frame of the window is likely to abrade or cut anyone exiting the RV through it. I guess it's a tradeoff between flesh or burning injuries. Perhaps laying a pillow on the window sill would help avoid injury
• The window is very close to the bed which may be a hindrance or help
• It would be best to exit the window feet first.
• The standards don't mention what you may mount outside the exit window. In my case, there is a spare tire below the window and I have to decide if that is a hindrance or help. Edit: I decided to cut back the upright holding the spare tire and leave it in place. I think it allows you a place to kneel/slide while exiting out the window.
• Properly attached I have a hard time believing that a screen would stop me from exiting in the case of a fire.
• I never want to be in a situation where I need this window.

Converting the Exit Window for Ventilation

Most of the time if it is hot the air conditioning is used and most of the time this is at night when a fire would be most dangerous.

Approach

• Fabricate and add a screen attached to the exit windows frame with a minimum of velcro
• Add handles to the screen so it can be easily removed
• Leave the screen off the exit window when it is not opened
• Fabricate and add a removable mechanism to hold open the window. Do not add any bracket that would impede exiting that window.

Window Holding Latch

I initially planned to use this window latch https://amzn.to/3RhgnH5. It provided a convenient way to push open the window and latch it in place. Then it occurred to me that it would either make it impossible to exit [if it did not break away] or it would be in the way of an already marginal opening. I decided to return it and make my own simpler and removable latching mechanism. Actually, it does not latch it just "holds" the window open.

This holding bracket mounts to the window frame and the weight of the window holds it in place. It minimally interposes into the window opening and it is easy to knock off if necessary. You just lift the window and it falls out or is simple to remove.

I think this holding latch facilitates exiting through this window.

I am thinking of replacing this holding latch with an installed version although it's a bit expensive. Hatch Lid Stay

Window Screen

This was fabricated using a window screen kit Screen Kit. After measuring the window opening and frame with I came up with dimensions that work for my window.

The kit corners are 90s rather than the arcs needed to fit the screen in the slot of the frame. This dictated that the screen be mounted on the outside of the window frame. This mounting facilitated easy removal in adverse to fitting the screen into the windows slot. Not as pretty but met the"easy to remove" requirement.

The frames aluminum is easy to cut square on a table saw

Use a center strut to keep the frame from bending while inserting the screen otherwise, it will not seal well to the window frame

When inserting the screen add the "pulls" at the top. 

I tied a ribbon across the pulls to make jerking the screen off even easier

Attaching the Screen to the Frame

The screen is attached using cut sections of velcro in a few places around the frame. I did not want to make the screen hard to remove so I used only 2x - 1" sections of velcro on each side of the frame.

The screen fit reasonably tight against the frame but there was a bit of daylight still detectable.

I used weather stripping that was thick enough to seal but still allowed the velcro to minimally grab.  I would have rather used black but it only came in white. It probably would be better if I adhered it to the screen rather than the window frame so it's not visible when the screen is removed.

 Summary

Adding anything to the existing Exit window configuration in your RV carries risk and I am not recommending doing so. Any modifications you make to your RV you do so at your own risk.

This post is for information purposes only and outlines the materials and steps I used. 

The exit window is useable as a vent with the addition of an easily removable screen and a holding bracket. This screen will be left off unless the window is open.

Rear RV Spare Carrier

 How can I carry a spare on the rear of my Jayco 26Y RV?

There is a mryiad of opinions on whether carrying a spare on a class C makes sense. Jayco suggests it is unnecessary because:

• It is dangerous to try and change a spare of this size on a vehicle this big
• You need special tools to change a spare like this one
• It's best to get a roadside service.

Therefore my RV did not come with a spare and it made me uneasy!

Jayco is right ... but!

Stories from RVers that had a flat suggest that there are other important things to consider. Such as:

• You may not have cell service and cannot call roadside service
• Roadside service may take hours to get to your location
• Roadside service may not have your size tire in stock and have to order one

You need a flat tire plan

I decided that we needed a multitier flat tire plan so this is what I came up with.

Tier 1:We are within reach of Roadside Service but they do not have our tire

• Subscribe to a roadside service
• Carry a spare tire and rim

Tier 2: We cannot get roadside service

• Carry a spare tire and rim
• Carry a tire changing tool kit

Spare Tire Kit

Details of my kit are here: https://donstronicthings.blogspot.com/2022/06/spare-tire-kit-for-jayco-26y.html

A common denominator present in all tiers of my flat tire plan is the need to carry a working spare.

To this end, I got a spare and put it up in the loft above the cab.

Lofty Approach

I put the spare in a plastic bag and laid it on top of a piece of cardboard. This kept the loft area free of tire debris and made it easy to push and pull the tire in the loft.

This tire and rim are heavy! Although at 72 I am able to slide the tire out of the loft and onto the RV floor it took all I had. I could easily see that moving this tire would eventually be impractical for me.

We stored and moved the spare in this manner for about a year but with the notion that it was a temporary storage solution.

Since the center section of the loft had to remain in the down position my wife found it more difficult to get in-out of the passenger seat. As we all know the passenger chair is too close to the doghouse to comfortably lower onesself into the passenger seat.

So with the usual wife's encouragement, I started to think about an alternate storage location for the spare.

Where to store the spare on my Greyhawk 26Y

There seemed to be 3 viable approaches

1. Store in a rack in front of the radiator
1. I did not like blocking the radiator
2. Store underneath up in the chassis
1. My shorter RV did not have enough space :( I would have preferred this method.
3. Hang it on the bumper
1. My only choice. I knew that the bumper was not stout enough to cantilever the weight of this spare.
2. Other approaches simply put the spare carrier in the rear reciever while providing another reciever outboard to connect something being towed. I could not imagine hanging (cantilevered) a truck tire and rim in this manner. The rotational forces on the hitch mounted adapter would be large and the possibility of breakage would be high.

The Rear Spare Carrier Rack Design

Reinforce the rear bumper

I researched how others reinforced their bumper (some did not... yikes) and found brackets on Amazon like this:

Heavy Duty Bumper Brackets

I decided that the compatibility of these brackets with my RV was going to be hit or miss and that I would likely have to modify the purchased brackets.

I, therefore, decided to make my own. They are fabricated from 1/4 steel plates purchased from the local Metal Mart. They were designed to capture the bumper while mounted to the frame. There were convenient locations to do so.

I decided to put one of these brackets on each side of the bumper mounted to the frame.

Carrier Design & Fabrication

Features:

I decided that the carrier needed these features.

• Mounted to the rear bumper to the right side of the hitch and left of the ladder
• Removeable and allow other things (bike rack) to be mounted on that location
• One person can remove the spare
• Reduce the cantilever reducing the twist force on the bumper
• Does not obscure the rear lighting
• In view of the rear camera
• Safe operation under way. Having a spare fly off at 70mph would be a bad day.

Design Choices:

• Use a store-bought receiver that mounts to the 4" bumper:  https://amzn.to/3e1DBls. 
• Design and build a rack that would swing down from a pivot point to the ground reducing the load on the operator.
• Mount the spare to the carrier using the same studs and lug nuts as the hubs. In a pinch, these could be used if during a tire replacement they get lost.
• The rack is removable from the receiver. Although I could have attached the rack directly to the bumper I wanted to be able to remove the spare carrier and use the reciever for something else like a bike rack.
• By mounting the tire vertically resting on  top of the bumper the weight of the spare is perpendicular to the bumper. This dramatically reduces cantilevered forces. 

Bumper Mount Reciever Adapter

Design Prototype

Due to the complexity of the carrier, I decided to make a CAD model and then build a prototype from wood. I expected that there would be problems with getting all of the parts acurately located so that the tire was upright and resting on the bumper when stored while being able to easily swing down for removal.

Fusion 360 CAD model

The design consists of:

Bumper Adapter Assembly: a purchased assy that bolts a reviever to the bumper

Post: this upright 2x2 tube holds the tire for mounting and dismounting.

• Two studs welded through this post to hold the tire.
• A lower pivot point hole and bolt 
• 2x side plates (welded) with three holes
• Two bolts to secure the post in the up position

Reciever Coupler: this 2x2 tube is inserted into the bumper reciever

• A hole to accomodate the posts pivot
• A hole for securing the post in the up position
• Internal locking nut to secure the coupler to the reciever

Tire Rest Bracket: a 4 four piece welded assembly made from 1/4" plate. This assembly guides the post to the upright postion and provides a flat surface for the tire to rest. 

• One welded face plate with two holes for mounting to the front of the adapter
• Two welded 1/4" side plates to align and secure the post in the upright postion.
• One tire rest plate on which the tire rests when in the up position.
• Two holes in the side plates to secure the post in the upright position.

Operation:

To remove the spare:

• Remove the bolt in the Tire Rest Brackets side plates
• Remove the bolt that interposes the Reciver Coupler. This is the rear bolt in the posts sideplates.
• Do not remove the pivot bolt
• Gripping the top of the post rotate the post with tire attached to the ground.
• Remove the tire retaining lug nuts with a tire wrench
• Remove the spare tire for mounting on the RV

After replacing the flat tire with the spare:

• Place the flat tire on the posts studs and fasten with the lug nuts.
• Rotate the post and tire to the up position.
• Replace the bolts that were previously removed to dismount the spare
• Replace the forward bolt in the Tire Rest Bracket
• Replace the bolt that interposes the Reciver Coupler

Prototype

The proto was made from wood. The individual parts were milled to the exact size and thickness that the metal version would be. 

Final Assy

Ready for mounting

Tire mounting

Tire fastening

Welded stops hold the bolt so that only one wrench is needed

Hitch Extender added to accomodate close fitting mounts. Not needed for my toad

Side plates

Reciever Coupler

Cooupler to reciever interfaces typically have some play. In towing applicaitons this amount of movement is normal and does not create a problem. In this application however any play in the instert to reciever interface allows the carriers post to wobble. To reduce any rotation of the carrier post the adapter cooupler needed to be solidly mounted to the reciever.

I decided that the best way to solve this was to weld a locking nut on the inside of the coupler tube. Easier said than done! How do you get a nut welded 10" down in a tube.

Done!

When mounted the tire rests on the bumper fastened to the carriers post. The tire is close to (1/4") but not touching the wall of the RV. 

Fabrication Notes:

I decided to reduce costs and itteration frustrations I would fabricate the carrier myself using the wood prototype as a model.

I started cutting the steel parts using a hand jigsaw with a metal blade. Than I found a band blade that would run on my HF bandsaw and this dramatically reduced my cutting time while yeldin better results.

This blade cut the 1/4" steel like butter leaving a clean surface ready for welding.

Bandsaw blade

I assembled the carrier drilling the fastner holes guided by the CAD models drawings. I tack welded the parts to check the overall fit and operation of the assy.

After cleaning up the joints I took the tack welded assembly to a local welder. My welder is not hot enough and my welding is not pretty and likely not as strong as I would like.

As you might expect there were multiple itterations of the wood model that translated well to the steel version. I did have to increase the tolerance on the mounting holes of the steel version to facilitate easier insertion of the mounting hardware. 

Testing:

We took the RV with the mounted spare across town to get gass. We then travelled to our favorite fishing spot 45 min away at speeds up to 70mph. The carrier mounting was SOLID!

Watching the spare in the rear camera

Cost

Materials:

• Reciever adaptor: $41
• *Metal: $50
• Hardware: $15
• Welding: $30
• Paint: $10

Total Materials: 146

*Purchased from local "Metal Mart" from offcuts

Tool Investment:

• Band saw blade: $23

Jayco RV Utility Center Theory Of Operation

OMG could the utility center in the Jayco 26Y be any more confusing?

This research and these posts should make it easier to comprehend? 

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/utility-manifold-valves-81133.html#post909713

https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f5/utility-manifold-valves-81133.html#post912067

Stuck at Camp Possibiites

I postulated what failure modes would keep you from leaving a campsite and what you could do about it.

Any subsystem failure or low or missing 12v power can cause:
-Slideouts to get stuck out
-Awning to get stuck out
-Hydraulic jacks to be stuck down

Having one of these stuck out is the start of a bad day!

----------
I did research on manually retracting my slide-outs in case of failure or loss of battery power.

On my 2020 Greyhawk 26Y the bedroom (in-room) slide can be manually operated from the Lippert slide controller.
According to the manual and Lippert. The slide can also be disengaged by unplugging the motors from the controller and pushing the slide in, then reconnecting the motors to lock the slide.
After pushing the slide in you can also put stops on top of the valance to keep the slide from sliding out. I carry two pieces of PVC for that.

There is one important design fault that makes manual slide operation a challenge. Jayco put the controller under the bed and it is not accessible from outside the bed box underframe. This means if you want to get access to the controller to:

• See the status indicators
• For manual operation
• To plug/unplug the motor cables

You have to remove the bed box cover.

To manually push the bed in you can remove the cover, unplug the motors and push the bed in. Then since the bed covers the controller you cannot plug the motor cables back in to enable locking.

DOH!

I wonder if Jayco actually tries some of the failure procedures that an RV user may encounter.

I contacted Jayco and they told me I had to disassemble the valance and unplug the motors at the motor end to disengage the slide....seriously.

So my solution was to relocate the bed controller to the outside wall of the bed frame. This way I can unplug the motors at the controller and not disassemble anything. I get the added benefit of being able to see the slide controller status and manual operation.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/SdRMrqUzzBrhLJJx8

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The living room slide-out is different. You access the motor from outside under the slide. A power drill is required to drive the slide in. I haven't tried this yet.
--------------
Side Note:
While inside the bed frame, full of unbelievably unprofessional wiring, I also noticed that my inverter has a nice digital display to show its current draw and status etc. Would have been nice to have its display visible! It's a big undertaking to move it as it's in the middle of high current wiring.
-----------------

Solution:

• Manually raise the hydraulic jacks with a drill (in Lippert manual)
• Manually retract the awning (video on how to do this will a HF drill https://youtu.be/AJQI0iPCK5A )
• Manually retract slideouts (in Lippert manual)

Jayco 26Y Cab Sound & Heat Reduction

---

I know that there are many posts on the subject of sound and heat abatement on the Jayco forum because I used them as references for this project.

Thanks to all that have done this before me and shared the way...
-------
We will soon be going on a trip and fully evaluating this upgrade.
I did not have a "before" sound measurement but on our test drive, I measured a 50-60db level in normal driving and a 70db level going up steep UTAH hills.
My visceral conclusion is that the noise is dramatically reduced. Our Cadillac measures in the 50-67db on the same road.
During this test drive, there was no noticeable heat radiating from the floor.

I did not insulate the doghouse. The materials had warnings not to use them outside so I held off. Since then I know of one RVer that put the Killomat under the stock insulation, I may do that later.

I had plenty of material left over. Then again I planned for but did not do the doghouse.

--------
I did struggle to decide on which of the many recommended materials to use and where.

========The list of what materials I used===============

Floor 1st layer: https://amzn.to/32R2CHw

Floor top layer: https://amzn.to/3aGdFaA

==========List of tools used=============

For seat bolts:

• T55 1/2" drive Torx bit: I bought a full set at HF. Here is a single: https://amzn.to/3vk1VT5
• 18mm 1/2" socket

For material installation:

• Sharp utility knife
• Roller: https://amzn.to/3esFsMS

For panel release:

Trim removal tools:

• https://amzn.to/3xsmoqE

==========Outline of installation =====================

Remove seats:

• There are two rear 18mm nuts and 2 forward T55 torxs
• Unplug cables connecting seats. These cables have a locking tab that you release to unplug them. If they won't unplug then don't force you have not unlocked it.

Remove doghouse:

• Pull outward on locking tabs on the bottom and upper sides of the house. Then you can pull back and remove the house from the cab.
• You may have to remove the panel under the steering wheel first.
• To remove pull the panel briskly outward. (be prepared for a bundle of wires to droop down, I tied mine up as best I could)

First on the passenger side and then repeat on the driver side:

Remove the side kick panels & covering:

• Each side has a kick panel on the outer wall. I removed and insulated the inside of them.
• On the doghouse sides, I pulled the covering material outward and applied the sound deadening/heat materials under it. I did not remove it from the wall.

Remove the step trim:

• Remove the large black trim section that covers the step and overlaps the mat. This section can be removed by releasing the clips. It's best to use a trim removal tool to keep from breaking the clips.

Existing rubber mat:

• Don't remove the mat from the vehicle but rather lift 1/2 of the rubber mat at a time. I left the insulation that was attached to the underside of the mat and the few places it was on the floor and laid material over it.

Apply the Killomat first and then the Noico red.

• The materials form easily to the floor but once you lay them down they cannot be easily moved.
• Ensure that there are no gaps between the individual pieces as you fit them.
• I laid the section on the floor and used a marker to mark the shape. You can also form the shape by pressing it around areas you want to cut away.
• Before laying down the material note where holes for fasteners, clips, and cables need to connect. I used the blunt end of a marker to press a mark in the material while fitting and before removing the backing. This showed me where to cut out the holes after applying the material.
• Release the backing from the edge of the cut material and stick the exposed edge in place. Then with one hand roll the backing off under the section as you press it into the surface with the other hand.
• After laying the material down use the roller to ensure good adhesion. Be easier on the Noico material as it can shred if you abrade it too much.
• I also ran material down the side of the floor into the step gulch.

After laying down both materials roll the mat back over the floor fitting it around the seat bolts and cable holes.

Replace the side and step panels. Be careful that the clips are aligned with their hole and do not force them. When they are aligned they will lockin easily.

Repeat the above on the driver's side.

Finally,

• Replace and install the doghouse
• Replace the panel under the steering wheel. I found that after tie wrapping everything except the camera cables and controller, the easiest way to get the panel on was:
  • Leave the camera control and wiring hanging out of the gap in the upper middle of the panel. Then lift and press the panel upward and into its clip holes. After the panel is clipped into place then push the camera controller and cables into the gap in the middle of the panel and into space under the steering wheel.
• Put the seat in position but before bolting it in connect the seat wiring.
• Bolt in the seats insuring that the front bolts and rear nuts are tight. They will feel "soft" as you tighten them as the new floor compresses.

Photos